Dissecting a Raleigh Bicycle Chaincase

My 1952 Raleigh Sport came with the fully enclosed chaincase, as seen in the photo above. It was one of the reasons I wanted the bike. I think it's a really cool look, and it's certainly practical. I do understand why all bikes don't have these. They do make things more difficult when you're dealing with maintenance issues. And they add weight.

I was a bit intimidated by this chaincase. Things I had read on the web led me to believe that these chaincases wildly complicate such everyday jobs as removing the rear wheel. As I read through Sheldon Brown and others, I learned that you would have to remove the pedal and the drive-side crank in order to remove the chaincase.

That is true. But the belief that you have to remove the chaincase to do anything to the bike is wrong, and it's what I inferred from various bike forum comments. Once I cracked into the chaincase myself, I found out that it's really not difficult to deal with. First off, you can remove the wheel quite easily with only minor effort.

Understanding the anatomy of the chaincase is the key, I think. Here's a breakdown of the entire chaincase, as it comes apart into separate pieces:

The part labelled "A - Main Chaincase Body" in the photo is actually bolted onto the bike frame from behind the crank and pedal. So it is true that you have to remove the crank in order to get the chaincase body off. But for most purposes, you never need to take it off. The only reason I did so was to give it a thorough cleaning. Otherwise you could leave it on the bike to remove the wheel, change or maintain the chain, or even remove the pedal and crank for that matter.

To remove the rear wheel, you only need to remove the part called "B - Bottom Piece." It is attached to "A" with two small screws. Only a screwdriver is required to remove it. Once you pull it off, you can easily access the cog, axle nuts and chain area.

Keep in mind that in order to remove the rear wheel, you also must disconnect the gear cable from the end of the axle. But as long as you tighten the small knurled nut on the indicator chain up snug against the gear cable's screw-on when you have the gears properly adjusted, you'll always know just where the screw-on needs to go when you put it back on.

Another tip is to put a wire or something through the chain when you remove the wheel, so that it can't slip out of view. As long as the chain is not unlinked, it won't go far.

I seriously wonder how often the back wheel was removed from my 1952 Sport. I'm guessing only a handful of times. The back tire was not original, and there were patches on the tube. So at some point it had to be accessed. But probably not often.

When I pulled the chain out of mine, it was covered in gunk. But I soaked it in vinegar for a day, then wiped it down with some oily rags. I then used a bit of solvent on it, then cleaned it some more. And it looked like new! So these chaincases really protect that chain, no doubt about it. There is a small oil port at the top of the chaincase, so you drip oil directly on your chain without removing any part of the chaincase.

Restoring and Upgrading the 1961 Raleigh Sport

I had delayed quite a while in doing the restore/rejuvenate/update project to my 23" frame 1961 Raleigh Sport. Once I took the leap of faith and started work, things progressed well and it went fast. Below is a photo of the finished project:

I ordered the cotter pin press and cup removal tool from Mark Stonich of bikesmithdesign.com. I had decided the entire project of overhauling this bike was contingent on being able to get the bottom bracket issues resolved. I am very happy with how easy these tools made the job, and I would recommend them.

The press easily pushed out the old cotter pins, and without any distortion I was able to use them again. The cup removal tool allowed me to remove the drive side cup, so I could thoroughly clean the entire bottom bracket and check the condition and clean both cups.

I was able to get the correct bearings from my LBS. There are eleven .25" loose bearings on each side. The cups cleaned up nicely and everything worked great once reassembled. Therefore I was able to crank the pedals and test the back wheel. The three speed hub went easily from first to second to third. The back wheel was a dirty mess, and I still had to decide what to do with it.

Ultimately I decided to carefully remove the hub from the wheel and lace it into a new rim. This was my first attempt at wheel building. As I built up a list of parts I would need, I researched the spoke length I would need for building this wheel into a new alloy Sun CR-18 rim. Bike forums all seemed to agree that the same size spokes would work as came out of the old wheel. I did, however, decide to use a spoke calculator, and arrived at a different number. I ordered my spokes and rims.

Now this ended up creating a problem when I compared the spokes I removed with the ones I bought. Not the same size. Turns out that I assumed the wheel was built "cross 3" (meaning each spoke crosses over three others). In fact, the original wheel was built "cross 4," so the length was different.

I went ahead and built it Cross 3 and it turned out just fine. Here's a look at the front wheel after it was finished.

So my original goal of preserving the rear hub, which has the date stamp of 1961 in it, worked out. In doing this project I removed every nut and bolt down to its smallest component and cleaned everything, oiled or greased, then reassembled. New bearings were replaced in the front hub, the headset and fork, and the bottom bracket.

Two places I did not tear into were the rear hub and the pedals. I plan to replace the pedals, but I ran into a problem removing them. It took awhile before I was able to find the right size pedal wrench to fit them. As it turns out, the old Raleigh multitools that came with the bikes has the right wrench. My modern Parks pedal wrench did not fit. I have also learned that a 5/8" wrench would fit, but would need to have its face ground down to where it was thin enough to fit in there.

I took the nuts and washers off the rear hub, and removed the 18 tooth gear cog, which was replaced with a 22T to give me a lower first gear for hills and riding in the wind. I then cleaned everything up, but I did not crack into the hub. This is something I plan to do later, because I would like to clean up the pawls and springs and replace the bearings and clean up the cups and cones and get new grease in there. Below is a photo showing how I like to work. I use an old spoke with a loop in the end, then as I disassemble something, I string it onto the spoke in the order it came off. I also take a lot of photos of assemblies so I can go back and refer to them. It's very easy to forget which way a piece was turned, or what order things go.

Toward that goal I found a used 40-hole Sturmey Archer AW hub (the same model) on eBay for $10. I've now practiced taking it all apart and putting it back together, and it's not that difficult. The only thing I'd be a bit concerned about is getting the cones set exactly right.

I also had to replace the original stem.

The chrome had come right off of it, so there was nothing really to clean up. I found one on eBay for $10, and was fortunate that the seller was from my hometown, so I got local pickup and saved shipping charges. Like the original, these stems are only 5.5" long, which may turn out to be too short for me. I may eventually swap out a new longer Nitto stem and perhaps a set of slightly wider handlebars.

Like my previous project, the 1974 Raleigh Tourist DL-1, I used the Schwalbe Delta Cruiser cream tires. I found a used black Prestube rear rack on eBay and added that. It may not be authentic, but it's appropriate to the period, and it hides a few of the dings and dents on the rear fender.

I did not intend to paint the frame. I had hoped I could get a few of the dents out of the fenders, but they are pretty stubborn. I did have to repaint the white part of the rear fender. I also found a replacement rear reflector in great condition, and it really helps distract from noticing that the paint is cleaner than the rest of the fender.

I also replaced the brake cables, and this is always a problem for these older Raleighs. They have a soldered "pear" end, so you have to cut the original cable and create a workaround using a small piece of hardware called a "cable knarp." I'm not very happy with the result. The knarp is not really the right shape for the receiver. The caliper brakes that came on these Raleighs are also very difficult to "center." The springs wear out and they end up with one caliper touching the tire and the other too far away, and no adjusting works. I managed to get the rear brake to work, but I'm not happy about it and have bought a new replacement brake, but haven't installed it yet.

The original seat was missing from this bike when I bought it. To get that classic look I also added a Brooks B67 saddle. The B67 requires a modern seat post, and I bought a two-button micro-adjustable post. This was my plan all along, because it's really important (to me) to be able to get the seat angle adjusted perfectly.

Also missing was the frame pump. Since the brazed bosses were in good shape I bought one that has the traditional look and function. But I have had bad luck using these for the very important function of putting air in the tires! So I moved my Brooks Millbrook saddle bag over to this bike. It has a tiny modern pump in there. So the frame pump is for appearance only.

I also added the Velo Orange leather mudflap to the front fender. It's handy for hiding a bit of damage there, and looks good, I think. Then there are the shellacked cork grips, which match the leather saddle and mudflap nicely.

Since this is a bike that I bought with the intention of fixing up to ride myself, I was not concerned about costs. But they can add up in a hurry! When you consider the cost of new rims, spokes, tires, tubes, rim strips alone, you're getting in pretty deep just doing the wheels. Then there's the cost of the Brooks saddle. I can't complain about anything else really. Those were the biggest costs. And I don't include buying tools, because I will use them on other bikes. 

I'm sure I'll continue to tweak and add new touches to the bike. I think a set of rattrap pedals with steel toe clips and leather straps would look really good, and enhance how it rides. I generally ride bikes with clipless pedals, and enjoy the added efficiency they offer, but I want to be comfortable riding this bike in street clothes.

This was a great project, and I learned a lot doing it.

Breaking the Fear Cycle

I still haven't done much with the 1961 Raleigh Sport project. I've done a lot of daydreaming. I've done a project list. I've figured out the ridiculous amount of money I'm going to end up spending on a 53-year old bicycle.

And then two weeks ago I decided I had to get into the bottom bracket and overhaul that before I could go any further, before I could even make any more decisions.

The crank is stiff and must be removed and the bottom bracket cleaned and greased before I can really evaluate the three-speed AW3 rear hub. But to get inside that bottom bracket I must remove the cotter pins that hold the crank on. At 53 years old, they were not going to give up easily.



My first attempt was to use an unmounted small bench vise. After loosening and removing the nut, I put the vise so that one part of the jaw was on the screw end and the other on a socket I placed over the opposite end of the pin. I began cranking away on the vise. I had sprayed the area liberally with penetrating oil, but nothing was giving.

I used a pipe to give me additional leverage and got it as tight as I could, then just left it overnight. The next morning when I tried to tighten it more the vise just slipped off.

At this point I've purchased a new crank cotter press from Mark Stonich at Bikesmith Design in Minneapolis. Here's what it looks like:



So this is a special tool designed by Mark specifically to work on these old, stuck cotter pins. I also got another handy tool from him, a fixed cup removal tool:



Assuming all goes well with getting the cotter pins removed, I'll be using this tool to remove the fixed cup inside the bottom bracket so that I can get it all cleaned up and rebuilt.

Big Plans for 1961 Raleigh Sport

In a previous posting, I talked about my fear of starting on bike repairs and projects. I see now that my post was written three months ago. And I haven't really done anything since then, other than planning in my mind.

I had a good excuse and a lousy excuse: I didn't have much work, so I had a lot of free time during nice weather, so I rode more. But I also had free time on rainy days, and I see I didn't get down to the workshop on those days either.

Now I'm busy with work again, and keep thinking about working on bikes. It's an endless cycle with me. Pun intended.

I missed a pretty good opportunity. A set of his and hers Raleigh Sports on Craigslist at a really cheap price, and I made arrangements to see them, but they were sold before I could get there. I was a bit relieved to not bring more bikes into the house, but disappointed because those bikes had some parts that I could use or learn on.

It's back to the same problem: I'd rather not fix the bike I have because I'm fearful of not knowing what I'm doing. I'd rather have a spare that I can use to learn on. I don't think that fear is entirely unjustified when we're talking about overhauling a Sturmey-Archer AW3 three-speed hub.

* * *

As I consider tackling the rebuilding of the 1961 Raleigh Sport I have several problems with the bike that I am trying to solve. First, the stem and handlebars are seriously rusted. So I need to replace them. I'm not a purist, and I'm not going to sand these down and have them re-chromed. This is why it would have been nice to get a couple of cheap bikes. I could probably have used the stem and bars off one of the other bikes just fine. I don't need flawless, but I want them to look pretty good.

Second, I want to replace both wheels. I'm going with something like the Sun alloys. As it so happens, these wheels are available already built by Harris Cyclery. The rear wheel comes with a new Sturmey-Archer hub in it.

Now this is a tough decision for me. I'm not saving a national landmark, it's an old Raleigh three-speed bike and there are millions of them. But it would be great to use the existing hub if there's nothing wrong with it primarily because it dates the bike. The hub is stamped with the date of manufacture.

Secondly, I have been considering that removing the hub and putting it into a new rim would be a great opportunity for me to learn to build a wheel. There's really no pressure here. I have plenty of bikes to ride, so it's not like I have to do it on a timeline.

But before I would think about pulling the old hub and building it into a new wheel, I'd need to verify that the hub was in good shape. That presents yet another challenge: I will need to tackle overhauling that hub, making sure it is in good working condition and well lubricated.

Thus, another reason for wanting "extra" bikes around: a laboratory and spare parts for learning to strip down the Sturmey-Archer AW3 hub.

* * *

I'm also going to need to get into the bottom bracket and service it. When I test it on the bike stand, the drive train has some sort of problem. This will be another good project for me, since it involves learning how to remove the cotter pin and get into that axle assembly. I am hopeful that it will go well, as I really want the traditional crank with the Raleigh Heron pattern to stay on the bike if at all possible. Again, I could probably have used that extra bike for the parts!

Then there are the fenders. Lots of little bumps and dents. I had thought that it would be quicker to just take these newer fenders and paint them rather than try to hammer out the 1961 fenders.

Some time back I bought a good condition Prestube Minor rack. I believe that would have been period correct, and it will look good on the bike. It also may help hide some of the fender blemishes!

* * *

Let's just assume that I succeed with all that. All that's left is ordering a headlight and a new Brooks sprung saddle and a modern seat post. I use Brooks saddles for my bikes and find that I need a micro-adjusting seat post in order to tune in the proper tilt and position.

Being Mechanical

I am not by nature mechanically inclined. My father is. Even now, at nearly 90 years old, he can fix or take almost anything apart, and generally get it back together again. And he has no fear about attempting projects. He's a WWII vet, and I think a lot of the guys from that era learned how to take things apart and put them back together very easily. Maybe technology and mechanical skills were easier then. And maybe survival depended more upon those skills.

I did not learn as much about fixing things while growing up. My dad, like I said, is good at those things, but not a very good teacher. He tended to just fix things himself without much demonstration.

Over the years I picked up just enough knowledge about fixing or maintaining things to be dangerous. With step-by-step instructions and YouTube videos, I can often get through a project. But I lack the understanding about how things work. And I think that's the key to how people like my father, and my brother as well, are able to tackle projects. They don't need every single possible detail, because their brains can fill in the gaps. I'm missing that, to a certain extent. I don't mean to imply that it's a genetic or inherent thing. I just never learned enough of the science of machines to build up that understanding about how things work.

But I did learn a bit about bicycle maintenance and repair when I was a kid. After spending almost a year saving up the money to buy my Raleigh Grand Prix in 10th grade, I had a significant investment that needed to be protected. So I read books from the library and studied and tinkered and got a fair idea about how to clean and repack bearings, adjust a derailleur or change a brake cable.

Over the next twenty or thirty years I didn't do much bike maintenance. Or riding. And bicycle technology has changed, and I'm often confused. Some of the new parts and technologies on my new bikes are far simpler to fix or adjust, and allow far greater fine tuning than my old bikes. But I am easily confused about whether I have a part which is essentially a cartridge to be pitched and replaced.

This weekend I completely disassembled the front brake on my 1952 Raleigh Sport. I took photos of every step, carefully laid the parts out in order, more photos, then cleaned each piece. Then I reassembled it all. The operation was a success. And now I understand how it all works. It's very rewarding to me.

I sometimes wonder what I will do with these bicycles that I have cleaned and restored. I can't ride them all. I think it's the satisfaction of knowing how it works, of mastering something that has been my lifelong weakness. Don't get me wrong, I like riding bikes. But I also enjoy taking them apart and putting them back together just for the sake of learning.

When it comes to fixing things, including bikes, I'm often fearful of starting. What if it takes a long time to get this fixed? What if I mess it up and can't fix it? What if I lose a part? It's another reason I have a number of bikes -- if one breaks down, I can always switch to another. But the more I work on bikes, the more I'm able to overcome this fear.

My father never fears this failure. Just turn off the water, cut into the pipe, jump right in. I hope I'm becoming more like him.

A pair of vintage Raleigh Sports!

I took quite a road trip with my wife this past weekend. We live near Edwardsville, Illinois, outside St. Louis. We drove almost four hours up to Hamilton, Illinois, near Keokuk, Iowa to see a couple of old Raleigh bicycles for sale by a local teacher there named Chad. I “rescued” two bikes: a 1952 Raleigh Sport three-speed in complete condition, including owner’s manual and tools, and a 1961 Raleigh Sport. Both will make fun projects, depending upon how far I want to go with them.

So I have much to consider regarding whether to just do a good cleanup and get them in riding shape, or do a restore of some sort, or what? The 1952 has a full chaincase, which I've always wanted. But it's also a 21" frame, and I think the 23" frame on the 1961 would be a better choice for a "keeper."

Along the way we also saw an eagle, lots of hawks, deer and other critters. We also did a very quick run up to drive through and see the Nauvoo historic area and the temple. It was a fascinating area, and another real surprise was the beautiful river road between Hamilton and Nauvoo. The road is just feet away from the Mississippi River, which along this whole route is frozen solid. Volunteers at the Nauvoo Visitor’s Center told us that the river has around 12 inches of ice this year. It was odd seeing logs and brush lying on top of the ice all over the river.

Sunny Day Soldier

I was going to write a new posting for this blog. But something came up, and then I didn't, and before long I'd gotten out of the habit. This happens to me a lot!

One thing that I noticed was that I have a lot more to contribute to this blog when I'm riding regularly. And this has been the winter of no riding! I still see other people out riding, commuters all bundled up and a few weekend groups. But with ice and snow, I'm out of the saddle.

I got in quite a few rides up through December, but I think I've only ridden once since then. That was in the end of February when I finally got in a 21 miler near home. But no regular riding, and I'm suffering from it. Gaining weight. Eating poorly. Not taking advantage a couple of times when I might have been uncomfortable but could have ridden a bit.

So I've decided to try a different ploy: I'm going to write anyway. Gonna post something to keep myself interested in cycling until the weather allows me to get out there. Rather than letting the cycling inspire my writing, I'll let my writing inspire my cycling.

I had one bicycle project in my mind all year that I never got around to, and I think it's going to wait a bit longer because I want to do it right. I've built up a couple of bikes just to use up the parts I had lying around. But now I have a specific bike that I want to build, and to do it right requires starting from a good base frame. I'm looking for a nice 70s - 80s road bike, lugged steel frame, like a decent Raleigh or Fuji or something. I'd really like a quality metal, like Reynolds 531 double-butted tubing or better, in a 58cm or 23" frame size. Horizontal dropouts. I want to turn it into a nice "sportster" bike.

My plan is to do an upscale version of the Raleigh 3-speed Sportster bike. I'm thinking an 8-speed Shimano Nexus internal geared hub, Nitto mustache handlebars, a nice sprung Brooks saddle. Hammered fenders, a saddle bag, preferably hub-style generator lighting.

I've seen a few bikes that would make good subjects, but I can't seem to pull the trigger. I'm feeling a bit guilty about having too many bikes right now. So I guess my first task should be to try to sell or give a couple away to make room for a new project.