Upgrading the DL-1 brake pads

On my first test ride of the DL-1 I quickly saw that the rod brakes were going to have to be kept pretty carefully adjusted, or look into some alternate ideas. There was no stopping power during that test ride, and when I coasted into the driveway I was applying my Fred Flintstone brakes -- dragging my feet to stop!

I experimented over the first few weeks. I sanded the brake pads a bit to get the hardened rubber out of the way. I moved the pads a bit closer to the rim. Still, I found myself slowing to a crawl whenever the bike trail crossed a street, in case I needed to make some drastic move.

I then learned about Kool Stops salmon brake pads designed as replacements for rod brake bikes. The price, at $30.00, seemed pretty high, but I'm pleased to say that I've reached a point where I can stop the bike pretty reliably. The toughest job was getting the old brake pads out of their holders. The new ones slid in pretty easily, and I just used a pair of pliers to cinch them in.

I've also gotten more adept at positioning the brakes close enough to the rim that you can get good leverage and more stopping power. One trick that seems to be working for me is to leave the rod adjustment nut loose, get the brakes where I want them, then slightly pull up on the entire brake just a tiny bit before tightening the nut. This seems to keep the brake levers in the tightest position, so that you don't encounter a lot of slack when you begin applying the brake.

I haven't ridden the bike in the rain, or in wet conditions since changing the brake pads, and I probably won't, unless accidental. Regardless of what you do to get the brakes finely tuned, I think that moisture on the rim will always be a problem when braking.